Interview: Chris Modoo, Kit Blake
I caught up with menswear aficionado Chris Modoo earlier this month, to talk all things menswear including his brand Kit Blake, personal style and the future of menswear. Chris worked on Savile Row for a number of years, so this serves as an insightful take on London’s menswear scene from an industry insider.
Chris, great having you on here. After our chat, it was clear you have a wealth of experience in the world of menswear. Can we start with an introduction of yourself please?
I started my menswear career on the shop floor in Selfridges and spent the first ten years of my career in retail management before my first Head Office role. Although this was quite a slow path, the experience from serving customers was invaluable. I have always worked for sartorial brands but that been a mix of heritage and start-ups. I have worked for the newest and oldest tailors on Savile Row.
My last “proper job” was with Chester Barrie where I put their seasonal collections together. We parted company in 2017 and I decided to do my own thing and started my company “Urbane Outfitter” where I offer consultancy, sourcing, styling and editorial services.
Let's talk about your brand, Kit Blake. The trousers really are pleated perfection and where do we even start with the drape?! Can you tell us how the brand came about?
Kit Blake started from a conversation with my friend, Richard Wheat, with whom I contacted to see if I could assist with his heritage motorsport luggage brand, Caracalla 1947. As an entrepreneur, Richard is always looking for new opportunities and was interested in under-served areas in the men’s fashion arena. I always felt trousers were neglected between suits and jeans/chinos. I put together a presentation and we had some samples made in Italy. The four-pleat trouser had become increasingly rare in mainstream menswear yet there was a trend away from the awful skinny look of the High Street. We worked hard with our workshop to get the pleats just right but the reaction from customers has been great. The Rake have been a great supporter of the brand and we launched with them in 2018. We ultimately will offer seven style variations of which four are versions of the four pleat.
As well as Kit Blake, I actually also have a position with Caracalla 1947 and we have successfully grown the business to offer luxury gifting to support the bespoke offer.
How would you describe your personal style? Is there any particular era/ individuals from which you take inspiration from?
I haven’t really changed my look since my late teens...and there are some staples I always like and wear despite if any particular trends such as pocket squares, double-breasted waistcoats highly-polished Chelsea boots. I always like to look smart rather than fashionable although I am a lot less formal than I used to be.
I am enjoying the current appetite for informal elegance where I mix tailored trousers with knitted tops. I love the dress-down look of the 30s/40s/50s from vintage Esquire plates. I take inspiration from a lot of people but currently I am a little obsessed with the styles of Charlie Watts, Andre 3000 and Anthony Eden. Google is such a great tool for inspiration. I remember having to go to libraries to find a single image of Bunny Roger and I visited the V&A to see a suit with sleeve cuffs from the 1950s New Edwardian era.
Any particular menswear pet peeves?
Lots. Short socks, chest pockets on double-cuffed shirts, skinny suits in bright navy, short jackets, pocket flaps on dinner jackets, buttons left undone on double-breasted waistcoats, tie bars worn with waistcoats, rucksacks worn with tailoring, badly tied ties, call centre shoes, bright satin ties, matching ties & pocket squares, open neck white shirts with collars that do not sit properly and unpolished shoes.
How do you see menswear style developing?
Now that business dress is no longer the driving force of the industry we will need to entice the customer to dress better in his own time. Whether that is a vacation or a night at the local.
Where does Kit Blake sit in that? How do you hope for it to develop over the coming months and years?
Customers buy Kit Blake because they want to and not because they have to. The Kit Blake customer dresses for himself and enjoys his cloths. We look forward to expanding the collection with more styles and fabric options. We are looking for retailers with physical space to work with and also have our standalone transactional web shop due to launch this year.
What's next for you?
I am really enjoying the growth of KB but will continue to work with Caracalla as well as my other consultancy roles. I would like to create some video content to complement my editorial work...a few tutorials to answer the questions I am asked frequently.