Interview: Buzz Tang, The Anthology
Buzz is all things classic menswear with a playful and modern twist, and I’m sure you’ve found your way to his instagram account at some point - @buzzspoke - and left feeling inspired. He is the Co-Founder of Hong Kong and Taiwan based menswear label, The Anthology. Some weeks ago, I sat down with this brilliant young man and talked all things menswear and beyond - here is a snippet of our conversations.
Buzz, it's been great getting to know you over the past month. Can we start with an introduction of yourself please?
Pleasure’s mine, thanks for having me. My name is Buzz Tang. I don’t exactly have a nickname because the name Buzz itself is quite memorable. I cofounded a classic menswear label called The Anthology and our showrooms are in Hong Kong and Taiwan. However, I’m mostly based in London myself.
From our chats, it's clear you are hugely passionate about menswear - how did your journey in menswear begin?
I would say it almost runs in the blood.
Growing up, I have always been dressed in classic clothing. I was heavily invested into high fashion, or simply big labels during my early high school years. Years passed by and I looked into the mirror one day, starting to find those clothing choices questionable, then slowly gravitated back to classic wear as I think they do fit my proportions better. However, my heart lies with fashion due to my mother’s influence and I decided to pursue design in college.
I've always found the trade very intriguing. I still remember the days when I was running up and down Savile Row learning from different people. The stars aligned. I was very lucky to be taken up to be one of the few merchants on Savile Row and that's how it all started.
My budding interest in retail soon grew into a desire to make my own mark in the industry, hence The Anthology today.
How would you describe your personal style?
Eclectic. Classic silhouette, modern in terms of mindset and approach, playful and adventurous at times. Certainly not afraid of colours.
Let's talk about your brand, The Anthology. Can you tell us how the brand came about?
I enjoy classic tailoring thoroughly but seeing how friends around me almost no longer wear tailoring or have misinformed connotations of tailored clothing, even the ones who grew up with the culture, I find it very unfortunate. Revitalising menswear is the future of menswear in my opinion and I have paid patronage to multiple retail stores that I truly respect by being a customer before starting my own.
Having the privilege to run The Anthology is a matter of serendipity and also “right time right place”: I met Andy, who is the other pillar of The Anthology, when I was 18. We share the same goal in terms of how we perceive a brand, but also have very different perspectives. Thus, we effectively fill each other’s gaps which in turn makes the label more all-rounded. Based on his expertise in bespoke tailoring and my prior experience on Savile Row, Andy and I knew there would be an opportunity to start a concept shop that conveys the story of a modern man who carries that tasteful eclectic identity, a bricolage of the modern and the old. Thus, The Anthology was born.
Style and brand story aside, I view the establishment of the business here as a kind of cultural bridging process. I wouldn’t necessarily say that our sole focus is the promotion of Asian craftsmanship for its own sake, but when it comes to the quality of our product there’s no denying excellence. We are simply looking for the right people to do the right things, to see craft in an objective manner without bias and prejudice.
How do you hope for The Anthology to develop over the coming months and years?
To transcend beyond a pure geeky menswear brand whilst not losing integrity. Some say once a tailoring brand launches ready-to-wear collections, their custom-made line’s quality deteriorates. I don’t find it entirely true. I just think it’s about monitoring and maintaining the right amount of training and quality control. Menswear is a fun, niche bubble but to be true menswear advocates, we want to democratise it too. Our Lazyman Jackets and knitted t-shirts are our first response to this more laid-back dressing environment. We keep things casual while weaving in hints of classicism and old world elegance into our designs. We have now also debuted our first RTW sport coats which are presented in fabrics that are not so commonly used in classic tailoring, challenging classic silhouettes with something more innovative.
Overcoats have been the item that our fellow Anthologists have been asking for over the last two years. After much time scrutinising the designs, we will finally be introducing our first RTW overcoat design as a collaboration with someone who embodies it perfectly, so stay tuned.
Three things you don't leave the house without?
Like almost every Gen-Z, I must bring my phone, my wallet (makes me sound like an old man but I’m not entirely comfortable using Apple Pay, sorry! Also kudos to Made by Nichols for my stunning bespoke cardholder which I have no reason to not bring along).
The last thing would be a face mask, unfortunately. It’s 2020 and we all know what’s going on out there. Stay healthy everyone.
If it wasn’t due to the virus outbreak, I would tend to say a watch, as they are very good accessories to be worn together with tailoring and dressing up is almost a day-to-day thing to me.
How do you see menswear style developing?
Definitely towards the more casual end, but that doesn’t mean it will become stale and uninspiring. Without fashion and streetwear, classic menswear would not be cool. Imagine we were all situated in the 30s or 50s, donning a suit is just what an average Joe would do. One doesn’t just become special by wearing a tweed jacket per se! If anything, I would consider today as the most interesting era to wear classic clothing. We can enjoy creative freedom simply by mixing tailoring with anything we like. Isn’t that just fascinating?
Three menswear tips for men trying to step up their personal style?
Don’t take “wise mens’” words as your words. Forge your own path, be confident and audacious. Do not worry about making style mistakes because everyone does. Fear is the mind-killer.
Invest in a good cream/honey jacket (which is also one of The Anthology’s signature). It’s tasteful and acceptable by social standards. Yet, not uncommon but rare at the same time. You only realise its versatility until you own one!
Invest in good shoes. A pair of handsome shoe last sets the game.
What's next for you?
My heart lies within clothing and production. I endeavour to make an impact, be it in menswear or society.
Promoting Asian craft is one thing, but ultimately I really want to encourage healthier consumerism. Conscious consumption and sustainability almost feel like a bandwagon in today’s fashion industry. As a style purveyor, I am certainly not against the culture of consumption because that’s what keeps businesses moving. However, a more cultivated mindset would be nice and I hope in the future customers would be more well-informed about quality and longevity, which naturally addresses the ongoing issue with sustainability.